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The Pacific and its Eastern and Western Rims should be considered the crucible of 

surfing, with the first recorded Surfboard riding in Hawaii. While we look at the 

Eastern Pacific Rim straddling the Americas and the Western Rim including the East 

coast of Australia, in this part of our surfing journey we shall concentrate on the Pacific

Islands.
Pipeline - The Chantays
While we cannot show you all of the surf spots of the Island Pacific, we can at least 

show you three as selective examples. These are major surf spots in Hawaii, French 

Polynesia and Fiji. And we are showing you the biggest, the best and possibly the most 

dangerous. For the more faint hearted and those who enjoy more 'sedate' surfing, the 

Island Pacific is riddled with many famous surfing beaches. But time and space does not

allow us to show you them here. 
Hawaii
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Hawaii
Extreme Surfing Hawaii - Discovery Channel
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Pipeline

The Banzai Pipeline, or simply 'Pipeline' or

'Pipe' is a reef break off Sunset Beach Park 

in Pupukea on O'ahu's North Shore. A reef 

break is where waves begin to break once 

they reach the shallows of a reef. Pipeline is 

notorious for huge waves which break in 

shallow water just above a sharp and 

cavernous reef, forming large, hollow, thick 

curls of water that surfers can tube ride. 


There are three reefs at Pipeline in 

progressively deeper water further out to sea 

that activate according to the increasing size 

of the swells.


The reef at Pipe is a flat tabletop reef, with 

several caverns on the inside, creating a giant 

air bubble that pops on the front of the wave 

when the wave lurches upwards just before 

breaking. There are also several jagged, 

underwater lava spires that can injure fallen 

surfers. Sand often accumulates on the reef 

causing waves to "close out" at times 

rendering it impossible to surf. Strong 

swells from the west usually clear out the 

sand in the reef, and after that, a strong north

swell can give rise to the best waves.

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There are four waves associated with Pipeline. The left break is known as Pipeline 

(a.k.a. First Reef) and is the most commonly surfed and photographed. When the reef 

is hit by a north swell, the peak (the highest tipping-point of the wave where it begins


to curl) becomes an A-frame shaped wave, with Pipe closing out a bit and peeling off 


left, and the equally famous 'Backdoor Pipeline' peeling away to the right at the same


time.



As the size at Pipe increases, over 12 feet usually, Second Reef on the outside (further 

out into the deeper ocean waters) starts breaking, with longer walls (the unbroken face 

of the wave that the surfer slides across), and more size. At an extreme size an area 

called Third Reef even further outside starts to break with giant waves.


As can be expected, Pipeline is an exciting but seriously dangerous Surf experience 

with many surfers and photographers having been killed there. Pipeline is often 

considered the world's deadliest wave. Its average wave is 9 feet (3 m), but can be 

larger. Many more people have died or been seriously injured at Pipeline than at any 

other surf spot.
Biggest Pipeline Masters Surf Ever

The Banzai Pipeline got its name from a combination of its surf break in a pipe line 

fashion and its beach location (Banzaii Beach)

Jaws (Peahi)

 
Close to Pipeline is a simiarly dangerous 

surf spot.Off the northern coast of Maui is

Peahi, or 'Jaws'. This distant break is 

famous for tow-in surfing, where jet-skis 

“tow-in” surfers into monster 7-15 metre

waves are impossible to physically paddle

into. Spectators can view the action from 

a bluff overlooking Peahi.
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Big Wave Surfing At Jaws
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French Polynesia (Tahiti)
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Tahiti
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Teahupoo


Teahupoo is named after the village on the

south-west coast of the island of Tahiti, 

French Polynesia, southern Pacific Ocean. 

It is a famous surf break with heavy, glassy

waves offshore, often reaching 2 to 3 m, 

and sometimes up to 7 meters. 
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Teahupoo is the site of the annual Billabong Pro Tahiti surf competition, part of 

the World Championship Tour (WCT) of the Association of Surfing Professionals World

Tour surfing circuit and used to be one stop in the World Tour of the International 

Bodyboarding Association. Bodyboarding pioneers Mike Stewart and Ben Severson

first surfed Teahupo'o in 1986 and it soon became an underground spot for thrill-

seeking bodyboarders. Few professional surfers rode Teahupo'o during the early 1990s 

however in 1998, at the Gotcha Tahiti Pro, Teahupo'o became widely recognized as 

having some of the heaviest waves in the world. On August 17, 2000 Laird Hamilton is 

credited with surfing the "heaviest wave" ever ridden, documented in the film Riding 

Giants. In 2003 the late Malik Joyeux successfully rode one of the largest waves ever 

ridden. On October 31, 2008 surfer Ian Walsh towed the biggest Teahupoʻo wave of 

the season. Video footage of this ride was later used in a Red Bull energy drink ad 

campaign seen around the world. In May 2005, Keala Kennelly was the first woman to

tow-surf Teahupo'o in May 2005, getting a 10-foot barrel ahead of the Billabong Tahiti 

Pro contest. Along with board surfers, this challenging break has been conquered by 

many top windsurfers.
'Code Red' Movie - Surfing Goes Huge At Teahupoo 
The wave characteristics of Teahupo'o are is that it is a reef break. The swells mainly 

break left, but the outer reef also creates right breaks that surfers must be cautious of 

when paddling out. Teahupo'o is also renowned for the consistent number of barrels it

delivers. It is a rewarding location and is widely regarded as being on the 'must-surf' list 

of every enthusiastic surfer. However, only experienced surfers in peak physical 

condition should attempt Teahupo'o; heavy waves combined with a shallow shoreline 

can result in serious injuries and even death in a wipeout.
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Teahupo'o's legendary reputation for wave riding is partly due to its unique form. An 

extremely shallow coral reef, which ranges up to 20 inches beneath the waters surface,

is responsible for a very hollow-breaking wave. The wave's unique shape, with sees it 

almost breaking below sea level, is due to the specific shape of the reef beneath the 

wave. Its semi circular nature, which drops down sharply creates a 'below water' effect 

and the extreme angles in descent create an instant instability to the wave. A steep wall

of reef causes the entire mass to fold onto a scalloped semi circle breaking arc. The 

wave bends and races along into a dry reef closeout and the lip of the wave is often as 

thick as it is tall.


Teahupo'o is certainly a very deadly place and is included on Transworld Surf's list of 

the 'Top 10 Deadliest Waves' and it is commonly referred to as the "heaviest wave in the

world". Its name loosely translates to English as “to sever the head” or "place of skulls".

Overall there have been many deaths at this most dangerous surfing spot.
GoPro Perfect Teahupoo Tahiti Barrels
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Fiji
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Cloudbreak


If you are surfing in Fiji, it is hard to go past 

Cloudbreak. This surf spot is just about three

miles straight south of Namotu Island. It is a 

world class left reef pass that is regularly voted

one of the 10 best/most challenging waves in

the world. Like many tropical reef-pass 

breaks, Cloudbreak tends to get faster, 

shallower and more critical as it goes.


Cloudbreak’s reputation precedes it. Routinely

ranking among the ten most challenging waves

in the world, this renowned Fiji surf spot 

boasts fast, barreling lefts over a shallow reef. 


It’s one of those breaks you just have to see to

believe. It is awe-inspiring. Even if you're not 

up to surfing it, it's equally as thrilling to watch

from the boat and see others attempt it.


Cloudbreak is located on a sheltered reef, just 

three miles south of Namotu Island Resort.

One thing you'll notice even from afar is just 

how perfect Cloudbreak looks, with consistent

white breaks visible from up to two miles 

away.


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The waves at Cloudbreak hit the reef at many different angles. This, along with the 

sheer volume of water hitting the reef, make Cloudbreak one of the most complex 

waves you'll surf in Fiji, or even in the world. That said, the breaks are consistent…and 

consistently challenging. Make no mistake about it, Cloudbreak is a difficult wave to 

surf. At its most difficult, you'll need a jet-ski and a tow board just to get in.
Kelly Slater Commentates On Massive Cloudbreak Swell
Cloudbreak is a left reef break with waves that at some times can be as small as 2 feet, 

or as large as 20 feet. Don’t be lulled into a false sense of security as the waves get 

smaller. When this happens, they also get faster and more shallow as you barrel down 

on a live coral reef. It's all too easy to wind up on the reef because you ran out of water.

Stick to the point and middle of the surf for the most rippable rides. The inside tends to 

get very shallow.
Cloudbreak - Big Surf July 2011

The best conditions for surfing in Fiji at Cloudbreak is when the wind comes from the

Southwest, although any southerly trade winds will deliver good breaks at this Fiji surf 

spot. Cloudbreak is a challenging wave that attracts pros from all over the world. It is 

best left for advanced and expert surfers.
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And so we leave the Island Pacific and head towards to our next RM

 Surfing Experience!
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