The Pacific and its Eastern and Western Rims should be considered the crucible of
surfing, with the first recorded Surfboard riding in Hawaii. While we look at the
Eastern Pacific Rim straddling the Americas and the Western Rim including the East
coast of Australia, in this part of our surfing journey we shall concentrate on the Pacific
Islands.
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Pipeline - The Chantays
While we cannot show you all of the surf spots of the Island Pacific, we can at least
show you three as selective examples. These are major surf spots in Hawaii, French
Polynesia and Fiji. And we are showing you the biggest, the best and possibly the most
dangerous. For the more faint hearted and those who enjoy more 'sedate' surfing, the
Island Pacific is riddled with many famous surfing beaches. But time and space does not
allow us to show you them here.
show you three as selective examples. These are major surf spots in Hawaii, French
Polynesia and Fiji. And we are showing you the biggest, the best and possibly the most
dangerous. For the more faint hearted and those who enjoy more 'sedate' surfing, the
Island Pacific is riddled with many famous surfing beaches. But time and space does not
allow us to show you them here.
Hawaii
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Hawaii
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Extreme Surfing Hawaii - Discovery Channel
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Pipeline
The Banzai Pipeline, or simply 'Pipeline' or 'Pipe' is a reef break off Sunset Beach Park in Pupukea on O'ahu's North Shore. A reef break is where waves begin to break once they reach the shallows of a reef. Pipeline is notorious for huge waves which break in shallow water just above a sharp and cavernous reef, forming large, hollow, thick curls of water that surfers can tube ride. There are three reefs at Pipeline in progressively deeper water further out to sea that activate according to the increasing size of the swells. The reef at Pipe is a flat tabletop reef, with several caverns on the inside, creating a giant air bubble that pops on the front of the wave when the wave lurches upwards just before breaking. There are also several jagged, underwater lava spires that can injure fallen surfers. Sand often accumulates on the reef causing waves to "close out" at times rendering it impossible to surf. Strong swells from the west usually clear out the sand in the reef, and after that, a strong north swell can give rise to the best waves. |
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There are four waves associated with Pipeline. The left break is known as Pipeline
(a.k.a. First Reef) and is the most commonly surfed and photographed. When the reef
is hit by a north swell, the peak (the highest tipping-point of the wave where it begins
to curl) becomes an A-frame shaped wave, with Pipe closing out a bit and peeling off
left, and the equally famous 'Backdoor Pipeline' peeling away to the right at the same
time.
As the size at Pipe increases, over 12 feet usually, Second Reef on the outside (further
out into the deeper ocean waters) starts breaking, with longer walls (the unbroken face
of the wave that the surfer slides across), and more size. At an extreme size an area
called Third Reef even further outside starts to break with giant waves.
As can be expected, Pipeline is an exciting but seriously dangerous Surf experience
with many surfers and photographers having been killed there. Pipeline is often
considered the world's deadliest wave. Its average wave is 9 feet (3 m), but can be
larger. Many more people have died or been seriously injured at Pipeline than at any
other surf spot.
(a.k.a. First Reef) and is the most commonly surfed and photographed. When the reef
is hit by a north swell, the peak (the highest tipping-point of the wave where it begins
to curl) becomes an A-frame shaped wave, with Pipe closing out a bit and peeling off
left, and the equally famous 'Backdoor Pipeline' peeling away to the right at the same
time.
As the size at Pipe increases, over 12 feet usually, Second Reef on the outside (further
out into the deeper ocean waters) starts breaking, with longer walls (the unbroken face
of the wave that the surfer slides across), and more size. At an extreme size an area
called Third Reef even further outside starts to break with giant waves.
As can be expected, Pipeline is an exciting but seriously dangerous Surf experience
with many surfers and photographers having been killed there. Pipeline is often
considered the world's deadliest wave. Its average wave is 9 feet (3 m), but can be
larger. Many more people have died or been seriously injured at Pipeline than at any
other surf spot.
Biggest Pipeline Masters Surf Ever
The Banzai Pipeline got its name from a combination of its surf break in a pipe line
fashion and its beach location (Banzaii Beach)
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Jaws (Peahi) Close to Pipeline is a simiarly dangerous surf spot.Off the northern coast of Maui is Peahi, or 'Jaws'. This distant break is famous for tow-in surfing, where jet-skis “tow-in” surfers into monster 7-15 metre waves are impossible to physically paddle into. Spectators can view the action from a bluff overlooking Peahi. |
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Big Wave Surfing At Jaws
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French Polynesia (Tahiti)
Tahiti
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Teahupoo
Teahupoo is named after the village on the south-west coast of the island of Tahiti, French Polynesia, southern Pacific Ocean. It is a famous surf break with heavy, glassy waves offshore, often reaching 2 to 3 m, and sometimes up to 7 meters. |
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Teahupoo is the site of the annual Billabong Pro Tahiti surf competition, part of
the World Championship Tour (WCT) of the Association of Surfing Professionals World
Tour surfing circuit and used to be one stop in the World Tour of the International
Bodyboarding Association. Bodyboarding pioneers Mike Stewart and Ben Severson
first surfed Teahupo'o in 1986 and it soon became an underground spot for thrill-
seeking bodyboarders. Few professional surfers rode Teahupo'o during the early 1990s
however in 1998, at the Gotcha Tahiti Pro, Teahupo'o became widely recognized as
having some of the heaviest waves in the world. On August 17, 2000 Laird Hamilton is
credited with surfing the "heaviest wave" ever ridden, documented in the film Riding
Giants. In 2003 the late Malik Joyeux successfully rode one of the largest waves ever
ridden. On October 31, 2008 surfer Ian Walsh towed the biggest Teahupoʻo wave of
the season. Video footage of this ride was later used in a Red Bull energy drink ad
campaign seen around the world. In May 2005, Keala Kennelly was the first woman to
tow-surf Teahupo'o in May 2005, getting a 10-foot barrel ahead of the Billabong Tahiti
Pro contest. Along with board surfers, this challenging break has been conquered by
many top windsurfers.
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'Code Red' Movie - Surfing Goes Huge At Teahupoo
The wave characteristics of Teahupo'o are is that it is a reef break. The swells mainly
break left, but the outer reef also creates right breaks that surfers must be cautious of
when paddling out. Teahupo'o is also renowned for the consistent number of barrels it
delivers. It is a rewarding location and is widely regarded as being on the 'must-surf' list
of every enthusiastic surfer. However, only experienced surfers in peak physical
condition should attempt Teahupo'o; heavy waves combined with a shallow shoreline
can result in serious injuries and even death in a wipeout.
break left, but the outer reef also creates right breaks that surfers must be cautious of
when paddling out. Teahupo'o is also renowned for the consistent number of barrels it
delivers. It is a rewarding location and is widely regarded as being on the 'must-surf' list
of every enthusiastic surfer. However, only experienced surfers in peak physical
condition should attempt Teahupo'o; heavy waves combined with a shallow shoreline
can result in serious injuries and even death in a wipeout.
Teahupo'o's legendary reputation for wave riding is partly due to its unique form. An
extremely shallow coral reef, which ranges up to 20 inches beneath the waters surface,
is responsible for a very hollow-breaking wave. The wave's unique shape, with sees it
almost breaking below sea level, is due to the specific shape of the reef beneath the
wave. Its semi circular nature, which drops down sharply creates a 'below water' effect
and the extreme angles in descent create an instant instability to the wave. A steep wall
of reef causes the entire mass to fold onto a scalloped semi circle breaking arc. The
wave bends and races along into a dry reef closeout and the lip of the wave is often as
thick as it is tall.
Teahupo'o is certainly a very deadly place and is included on Transworld Surf's list of
the 'Top 10 Deadliest Waves' and it is commonly referred to as the "heaviest wave in the
world". Its name loosely translates to English as “to sever the head” or "place of skulls".
Overall there have been many deaths at this most dangerous surfing spot.
extremely shallow coral reef, which ranges up to 20 inches beneath the waters surface,
is responsible for a very hollow-breaking wave. The wave's unique shape, with sees it
almost breaking below sea level, is due to the specific shape of the reef beneath the
wave. Its semi circular nature, which drops down sharply creates a 'below water' effect
and the extreme angles in descent create an instant instability to the wave. A steep wall
of reef causes the entire mass to fold onto a scalloped semi circle breaking arc. The
wave bends and races along into a dry reef closeout and the lip of the wave is often as
thick as it is tall.
Teahupo'o is certainly a very deadly place and is included on Transworld Surf's list of
the 'Top 10 Deadliest Waves' and it is commonly referred to as the "heaviest wave in the
world". Its name loosely translates to English as “to sever the head” or "place of skulls".
Overall there have been many deaths at this most dangerous surfing spot.
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GoPro Perfect Teahupoo Tahiti Barrels
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Fiji
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Cloudbreak If you are surfing in Fiji, it is hard to go past Cloudbreak. This surf spot is just about three miles straight south of Namotu Island. It is a world class left reef pass that is regularly voted one of the 10 best/most challenging waves in the world. Like many tropical reef-pass breaks, Cloudbreak tends to get faster, shallower and more critical as it goes. Cloudbreak’s reputation precedes it. Routinely ranking among the ten most challenging waves in the world, this renowned Fiji surf spot boasts fast, barreling lefts over a shallow reef. It’s one of those breaks you just have to see to believe. It is awe-inspiring. Even if you're not up to surfing it, it's equally as thrilling to watch from the boat and see others attempt it. Cloudbreak is located on a sheltered reef, just three miles south of Namotu Island Resort. One thing you'll notice even from afar is just how perfect Cloudbreak looks, with consistent white breaks visible from up to two miles away. |
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The waves at Cloudbreak hit the reef at many different angles. This, along with the
sheer volume of water hitting the reef, make Cloudbreak one of the most complex
waves you'll surf in Fiji, or even in the world. That said, the breaks are consistent…and
consistently challenging. Make no mistake about it, Cloudbreak is a difficult wave to
surf. At its most difficult, you'll need a jet-ski and a tow board just to get in.
sheer volume of water hitting the reef, make Cloudbreak one of the most complex
waves you'll surf in Fiji, or even in the world. That said, the breaks are consistent…and
consistently challenging. Make no mistake about it, Cloudbreak is a difficult wave to
surf. At its most difficult, you'll need a jet-ski and a tow board just to get in.
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Kelly Slater Commentates On Massive Cloudbreak Swell
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Cloudbreak is a left reef break with waves that at some times can be as small as 2 feet,
or as large as 20 feet. Don’t be lulled into a false sense of security as the waves get
smaller. When this happens, they also get faster and more shallow as you barrel down
on a live coral reef. It's all too easy to wind up on the reef because you ran out of water.
Stick to the point and middle of the surf for the most rippable rides. The inside tends to
get very shallow.
or as large as 20 feet. Don’t be lulled into a false sense of security as the waves get
smaller. When this happens, they also get faster and more shallow as you barrel down
on a live coral reef. It's all too easy to wind up on the reef because you ran out of water.
Stick to the point and middle of the surf for the most rippable rides. The inside tends to
get very shallow.
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Cloudbreak - Big Surf July 2011
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The best conditions for surfing in Fiji at Cloudbreak is when the wind comes from the
Southwest, although any southerly trade winds will deliver good breaks at this Fiji surf
spot. Cloudbreak is a challenging wave that attracts pros from all over the world. It is
best left for advanced and expert surfers.
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And so we leave the Island Pacific and head towards to our next RM
Surfing Experience!
Surfing Experience!
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