Surfing using boards (Wave Riding) is one of the oldest water-based human activities
there is. Believed to be about three thousand years old, surfing originated in Polynesia
and most likely in the Hawaiian Islands. It is unique in its athleticism and harnessing the
power of the waves - the power of nature- to project human beings along and down
huge waves like a guided missile. More than that when adopted by advanced Western
Society it has produced its own sub-culture and lifestyle (including music).
there is. Believed to be about three thousand years old, surfing originated in Polynesia
and most likely in the Hawaiian Islands. It is unique in its athleticism and harnessing the
power of the waves - the power of nature- to project human beings along and down
huge waves like a guided missile. More than that when adopted by advanced Western
Society it has produced its own sub-culture and lifestyle (including music).
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As one observer noted, the act of riding waves with wooden boards originated in
Western Polynesia with the first surfers being fishermen who discovered riding waves
was most efficient way to getting to shore with their catch . Eventually this form of
activity, catching waves for fishing,morphed from an everyday work activity to an
every day fun pastime. This change revolutionized surfing.
Western Polynesia with the first surfers being fishermen who discovered riding waves
was most efficient way to getting to shore with their catch . Eventually this form of
activity, catching waves for fishing,morphed from an everyday work activity to an
every day fun pastime. This change revolutionized surfing.
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It isn't known when stand-up surfing actually
became a sport. During the 15th century, both the royalty and the people of the Sandwich Isles were big into the sport of what was known as "he'enalu" (old Hawaiian for wave-sliding). Some historical records of wave surfing appear in the late 1700s. At that time Europeans and Polynesians made contact in Tahiti. Captain James Cook described how a Tahitian caught waves with his outrigger canoe just for the fun of it. He stated "On walking one day about Matavai Point, where our tents were erected, I saw a man paddling in a small canoe so quickly and looking about him with such eagerness of each side. He then sat motionless and was carried along at the same swift rate as the wave, till it landed him upon the beach. Then he started out, emptied his canoe, and went in search of another swell. I could not help concluding that this man felt the most supreme pleasure while he was driven on so fast and so smoothly by the sea." |
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It is thought the first Polynesians who arrived in Hawaii were skilled in simple surfing,
and after a few centuries riding the waves of Hawaii, the well-known Hawaiian form of
the sport emerged.
As one historian observed: 'The Hawaiians who surfed, the ali'i or high class, claimed
the highest reputation for skill with boards on waves. They developed their own
prayers, board shapers, wood and beaches where a select few could surf with people
of their talent. No one dared to drop in on their wave in fear of getting punished and
possibly dying. The surfboards underwent a sacred ritual before construction. Only
three types of trees were picked to make a board. The board maker would dig up the
tree and around the roots place fish in the hole as an offering to the gods for the tree.
The process of shaping then began.
There were four basic board types used in ancient Hawaii:
- The paipo or kioe, a body board, from 2-to-4 feet long, usually used by children.
- The alaia (ah-LAI-ah) or omo (O-mo), a mid-sized board, about 8 feet or longer.
- The kiko`o, larger than the alaia, but not as big as the biggest boards; between 12
and 18 feet; good for bigger surf, but requiring a high level of skill to handle.
- The olo (O-lo), a very long surfboard reserved for royalty that could be as long as
18-to-24 feet in length.'
and after a few centuries riding the waves of Hawaii, the well-known Hawaiian form of
the sport emerged.
As one historian observed: 'The Hawaiians who surfed, the ali'i or high class, claimed
the highest reputation for skill with boards on waves. They developed their own
prayers, board shapers, wood and beaches where a select few could surf with people
of their talent. No one dared to drop in on their wave in fear of getting punished and
possibly dying. The surfboards underwent a sacred ritual before construction. Only
three types of trees were picked to make a board. The board maker would dig up the
tree and around the roots place fish in the hole as an offering to the gods for the tree.
The process of shaping then began.
There were four basic board types used in ancient Hawaii:
- The paipo or kioe, a body board, from 2-to-4 feet long, usually used by children.
- The alaia (ah-LAI-ah) or omo (O-mo), a mid-sized board, about 8 feet or longer.
- The kiko`o, larger than the alaia, but not as big as the biggest boards; between 12
and 18 feet; good for bigger surf, but requiring a high level of skill to handle.
- The olo (O-lo), a very long surfboard reserved for royalty that could be as long as
18-to-24 feet in length.'
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By the early 20th century much interest in surfing had waned and was practiced only
by a few of the local people on O'ahu. Discovered by Captain Cook, many foreigners
had begun to explore, trade and eventually settle on the Hawaiin islands. A major
factor contributing to surfing's near disappearance was the rapid decline in full blooded
natives by 1900 the number of full-blooded native Hawaiians had dropped drastically.
True bloods made up only 25.7 percent of the total population of the Hawaiin Islands.
As a result the sport had degenerated back to its beginnings: boards were short, and
the riding techniques returned to simplicity with a dramatic drop in skill level and major
reduction in participants.
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Timeless A
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Timeless B
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The Resurgence
Surfing's eventual resurgence to a very popular sport was due to a number of factors
not least of which the influence of certain natives on the scene at the time. Known as
the 'Father of Modern Surfing," Duke Kahanamoku was an Olympic swimmer who
started a surf club on Wakiki Beach. Duke also swam in exhibitions and swimming
meets in Europe and the United States, as such his popularity attracted the attention of
many on the US West Coast and in particular many Southern Californians who became
interested and took up the sport of surfing.
Surfing's eventual resurgence to a very popular sport was due to a number of factors
not least of which the influence of certain natives on the scene at the time. Known as
the 'Father of Modern Surfing," Duke Kahanamoku was an Olympic swimmer who
started a surf club on Wakiki Beach. Duke also swam in exhibitions and swimming
meets in Europe and the United States, as such his popularity attracted the attention of
many on the US West Coast and in particular many Southern Californians who became
interested and took up the sport of surfing.
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Dispelling the myth that only Hawaiians could
balance while standing and riding waves, in the early 1900's, a number of Honolulu residents, both natives and others, re-discovered the waves at Waikiki, and gradually the interest was renewed. Soon, these 'surfers' were no longer satisfied with simply riding waves. By the 1930s, their ambitons surpassed their crued surfing equipment. Ever since then the surfboard was the focus - "pushing technology and design to provide boards that could match surfers' skills." Tom Blake was considered one of the pioneers of reinventing surfboards. Weighing half of what traditional boards did, his hollow Hawaiian board proved controversial in competitions, but was soon recognized as a success. Much experimenting by board builders followed, with new ideas in sizes, shapes, weights, and materials all tested. Blake soon added another innovation - a small fin on the board's bottom, underside which significantly helped in turning and cutting through the wave. World War Two research also led to discoveries of certain chemicals and materials to hold boards together. Waterproof glues soon developed to replace bolts running from rail to rail. Fiberglass, resin, and styro-foam also soon developed to immensely improve boards and the whole surfing experience. |
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The Safari
Greatly expanding the popularity of Surfing in the United States and particularly
California, was the advance in design and versatility of the automobile which allowed
so many youth to travel to their favourite surf spots. In other words, the Surfing Safari
was borne, wherein groups of youths got together in their 'woodies' or station wagons
and traveled far and wide searching for the best waves.
The Golden Age Of Surfing
The onset of the 1950s saw what was the Golden Age of Surfing unfold. Following the
Second World War many people enjoyed greater prosperity and leisure time. Beach
movies, surf fashion and in particular the show called Gidget greatly commercialised
the sport and reinvented and shaped the surfing lifestyle and culture. Surfing had gone
evolved from an elite and sacred Pacific Island activity to a multi-million dollar industry
soon to be global in reach, particularly when also adopted by the Australians, who soon
led the world in the sport.
In the 21st century, Surfing is now global and here to stay with a complete, lifestyle,
culture and multi-million dollar industry to support it. At one with nature, surfing is and
always will be a sport of intensity and the shared experience of the power of the ocean.
The onset of the 1950s saw what was the Golden Age of Surfing unfold. Following the
Second World War many people enjoyed greater prosperity and leisure time. Beach
movies, surf fashion and in particular the show called Gidget greatly commercialised
the sport and reinvented and shaped the surfing lifestyle and culture. Surfing had gone
evolved from an elite and sacred Pacific Island activity to a multi-million dollar industry
soon to be global in reach, particularly when also adopted by the Australians, who soon
led the world in the sport.
In the 21st century, Surfing is now global and here to stay with a complete, lifestyle,
culture and multi-million dollar industry to support it. At one with nature, surfing is and
always will be a sport of intensity and the shared experience of the power of the ocean.
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With globalised transportation, the world is now much more accessible for those
advocates and devotees of the sport so many keen to find the perfect wave. Pro surfers
(including big wave surfers) are constantly pushing all limits to modernize the sport.
Competition is constant to ride the biggest waves, jump the biggest airs and take the
biggest risks. Underpinning the sport, magazines, documentaries, accessories and
advertisements all contribute to its mainstream popularity. But for all true surfers,
whether industry supported or not - the passion remains to be compete with nature and
yet be part of it.
advocates and devotees of the sport so many keen to find the perfect wave. Pro surfers
(including big wave surfers) are constantly pushing all limits to modernize the sport.
Competition is constant to ride the biggest waves, jump the biggest airs and take the
biggest risks. Underpinning the sport, magazines, documentaries, accessories and
advertisements all contribute to its mainstream popularity. But for all true surfers,
whether industry supported or not - the passion remains to be compete with nature and
yet be part of it.
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Once Upon A Wave - Surf Movie 1959-1962
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The Earliest History Of Surfing
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